It isn’t just fresh produce that is seasonal. There are a few dry goods, the stuff of storage jars, that only seem to come out at certain times of the year. Pantry ingredients that are more fitting on a damp autumn day. Ingredients which, once cooked, will glow on a dark evening. Orange lentils, brown sugars, golden syrups and toasted oatmeal suddenly come down from the shelf, as do the two large glass jars of polenta. A smooth, golden porridge to eat with fried mushrooms; a crisp coating for scallops or cod cheeks; the crunchy base for a toasted sandwich or fried in rough-edged nuggets to dip in pools of melted cheese – polenta is adaptable.
There are two sorts of polenta in my cupboard – a coarse yellow meal (bramata) to be stirred lovingly with water or stock till it thickens, and a fine, instant variety, which I find useful when time is short. I use the latter in cakes that are to be soaked with lemon or orange syrups, scented with rose water or orange blossom. The fine, sand-like grains are also perfect for smooth, almost soupy polenta for serving instead of mashed potato.
The coarse variety that takes a while to cook – a good half hour of almost constant stirring – lends a more interesting texture and possesses a deep flavour. Slow stirring is part and parcel of making it. There is no point in trying to hurry it, or the flavour will be raw and mealy. Once cooked, the homely cornmeal porridge will take up cream or butter, hot milk or cheese to your heart’s content.
Polenta with pancetta, chard and cream
Having a block of set polenta in the fridge is as useful as having a loaf to hand. You can cut a slice and toast it as the need arises. I find the best way to cook it involves nothing more than a light brush with olive oil and a few minutes on a hot griddle pan. You can prevent the polenta sticking to the grill by ensuring the griddle is thoroughly heated then not moving the slice of polenta until it has formed a light crust on the underside. Gently ease it from the griddle with a palette knife. There isn’t much you can’t use to embellish the crisp, canary-hued toast, from a straightforward trickle of olive oil to reheated leftover stews or anything you need to make more substantial. I used up the chard in the fridge, cooking it first in its own steam then warming the softened leaves with garlic and cream.
Serves 4
For the polenta
smoked pancetta 150g
red onions 2
olive oil 2 tbsp
garlic 3 cloves
fine (instant) polenta 250g
For the chard
chard 400g
garlic 3 cloves
olive oil 2 tbsp
double cream 4-5 tbsp
Cut the pancetta into small dice or lardons. Peel and finely chop the onions. Warm the oil in a shallow pan, add the pancetta and fry till crisp. Remove from the oil and rest on kitchen paper. Add the chopped onions to the pan and cook for at least 10 minutes till soft and translucent. Peel and slice the garlic, add to the pan and continue cooking for a couple of minutes. Return the pancetta to the pan and toss together with the onions and garlic. Have ready a lightly oiled baking sheet approximately 30cm x 22cm.
Bring a litre of water to the boil in a deep-sided saucepan. Salt generously, then rain in the polenta, stirring or whisking as you do, then continue to stir for a further three or four minutes. Stir the onion and pancetta into the polenta, then scrape out onto the baking sheet, smooth level, and leave for a good half hour to set.
Wash the chard and separate the stems and leaves. Cut the stems into roughly 2cm lengths. Tear the leaves into pieces no bigger than the palm of your hand. Peel the garlic and slice thinly. Warm the oil in a shallow pan, add the garlic and let it soften, then add the chard stalks and cook for four or five minutes till tender. Steam the leaves for a minute or two in a pan with a tight lid. They don’t need any water, just leave them to cook in their own steam, then drain and return to the pan. Add the stems together with the cream and a little salt and black pepper and leave to warm for a minute or so.
Get a griddle pan hot. Slice the set polenta into eight rectangles. Lightly oil each piece of polenta then cook on the griddle till golden brown, carefully lifting them from the pan with a palette knife. (If you prefer you can fry them in a shallow pan or brown them under an overhead grill.)
Place the grilled polenta on a serving plate and spoon over the creamed chard.
Polenta-crumbed scallops, sweet potato mash
Ground polenta gives a coating for seafood, fritters and vegetables that is more light, crisp and delicate than breadcrumbs. The polenta can be used straight from the packet or seasoned with very finely chopped parsley, dill or tarragon (a brief ride in a food processor is most satisfactory). I also crumbed and fried the scallop corals, as I find their creamy flesh delicious and far too good to waste, but I should warn you that they have tendency to spit violently in the pan. Have a lid to hand.
Serves 4
For the mash
sweet potatoes 1kg
butter 50g
For the coriander paste
olive oil 150ml
coriander leaves and stems 40g
chillies 1 red, 1 green, medium sized
parsley 30g
fine polenta 100g
egg 1
scallops 12, sustainably caught
Peel the sweet potatoes, cut into large pieces then steam over hot water until tender, about 25-30 minutes. Stir in the butter then mash till smooth using a food mixer with a flat paddle beater or using a food blender. Scoop into a warm bowl, cover with clingfilm or buttered greaseproof paper and keep warm.
Make the coriander paste by processing the olive oil, the coriander leaves and stems and the chillies to a loose paste in a blender. Set aside.
Pull the leaves from the parsley (the stalks can be used for stock). Blend the parsley leaves and polenta together in a food processor then scatter the green-flecked crumbs onto a plate. Break the egg into a small bowl and beat lightly with a fork.
Make sure the scallops are dry, patting them with kitchen paper if necessary. Roll the scallops first in the beaten egg, then lightly in the parsley crumbs. Warm a little oil in a non-stick frying pan, then add the scallops and fry them over a moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes on each side till lightly crisp and pale gold in colour.
Place generous mounds of sweet potato mash on each of four warm plates, followed by a trickle of the coriander paste and then the scallops.
Deep-fried polenta with taleggio
It hadn’t really occurred to me to deep-fry polenta until I encountered it at Trullo, Tim Siadatan’s north London restaurant, where he serves it with melted gorgonzola. Making them at home, we couldn’t stop eating these crunchy morsels, dipping each piece into a warm puddle of molten taleggio. I urge you to tear the set polenta into pieces rather than use a knife. The jagged edges give a more interesting texture.
Enough for 3-4
water 750ml
coarse polenta (bramata) 125g
thyme 1 tsp
creme fraiche 4 tbsp
taleggio 150g
oil for deep frying
Bring the water to the boil in a heavy-based, deep-sided pot and salt generously. Add the polenta in a continuous stream with the thyme, then lower the heat and stir regularly for 30 minutes until you have a thick porridge. Scoop the polenta into a loaf tin, about 20cm x 12cm, lined with clingfilm, smooth the surface and wrap the film over the top. Leave for an hour or so to cool.
Unwrap the polenta and turn it out onto a chopping board or plate. Break the polenta into about 24 pieces, each one about 30-35g in weight. The rougher the break the more interesting the texture will be when they are fried.
Heat the oil to 180C in a deep pan. Lower the pieces of polenta into the hot oil, one or two at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Let the polenta cook for 5 or 6 minutes, turning from time to time then removing with a draining spoon as soon as they are crisp and golden. Place on kitchen paper.
Warm the creme fraiche in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Add the cheese cut into small pieces and let it melt. Stir gently.
Serve the crisp pieces of polenta with the cheese cream.
Soft polenta with garlic mushrooms
Soft polenta, the sort embellished with butter and cream, belongs to the family of soupy, starchy nannying food that serves to soothe and sustain (I’m thinking dal, porridge and congee). The generous amount of cream, butter and cheese is not negotiable. They are the point of the recipe. You could easily substitute a vegetable stock should you prefer.
Serves 2-3
chicken stock 1 litre
coarse polenta (bramata) 150g
butter 80g
double cream 250g
grated parmesan 100g
boiling water 150ml
For the mushrooms
large field mushrooms 2
chestnut mushrooms 150g
olive oil 5 tbsp
butter 80g
garlic 3 cloves
parsley 2 heaped tbsp, chopped
sage leaves 4, chopped
Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a deep-sided, heavy-based saucepan. As the stock starts to boil, rain in the polenta, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Continue stirring, making sure to get deep into the corners of the pan. Continue cooking, turning the heat down a little, for 40 minutes, stirring almost constantly.
Cut the mushrooms into slices about 1cm thick. Warm the oil for the mushrooms in a large frying pan then add the butter. When the oil starts to fizz add the mushrooms. You may find it easier to do this in two batches. Cook the mushrooms until soft and honey coloured, turning them once during cooking, then remove them to a dish using kitchen tongs.
Stir the butter, cream and parmesan into the polenta, then pour in enough boiling water to give a soft texture that will fall easily from the spoon. Peel and finely slice the garlic, add to the frying pan, letting it brown lightly in the butter left by the mushrooms. Return the mushrooms briefly to the pan, add the chopped parsley and sage make sure everything is warm.
Spoon the polenta into a serving dish, add the mushrooms and garlic and serve.
Polenta, apricot and marsala cakes
Introducing polenta to what is essentially a recipe for fairy cakes adds a welcome change of texture. I do think saturating the finished cakes with lemon and marsala-scented syrup worth doing. Moist with syrup, these little cakes will keep for a day or two.
Makes 12
unsalted butter 210g
caster sugar 210g
dried apricots 150g
ground almonds 150g
fine (instant) polenta 150g
baking powder 1½ tsp
eggs 3
lemon finely grated zest of 1
For the syrup
sweet or dry marsala 8 tbsp
lemon juice of 1
caster sugar 4 tbsp
You will need a 12-hole bun tin, each hollow filled with a paper baking case.
Set the oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Dice the butter and put it in the bowl of a food mixer. Add the sugar then mix with a flat beater, regularly scraping the mixture down from the sides with a rubber spatula, until light in colour and fluffy. Finely chop the dried apricots to the size of coarse gravel.
Mix the ground almonds, polenta and baking powder together. Break the eggs into a small bowl and beat lightly with a fork. When the butter and sugar is ready, add the beaten eggs and the polenta mixture alternately, the beater still turning, until thoroughly combined. Fold in 100g of the chopped apricots and the lemon zest.
Divide the mixture between the paper cases. Bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes until lightly risen.
While the cakes are cooking make the syrup. Pour the marsala into a small saucepan, add the lemon juice and the sugar and bring to the boil. Simmer for five minutes, then set aside.
Remove the bun tray from the oven. While the cakes are still warm scatter the remaining chopped apricots over the top then spoon some of the marsala syrup over each cake.
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